Sunrise and Mimosas - June 12, 2022

For our last full day on the Rock, we woke up before the sun to head to Cape Spear.   For those who don't know, Cape Spear is the easternmost point of North America which means we were first to see the sun rise (along with the other early birds we met there).

On the way back to town, we came around the corner to see this beauty in the middle of the highway. 

After freshening up and picking up Harry and Rose who decided they needed sleep more than sunrises, we headed back to Quidi Vidi for brunch at Mallard Cottage.   Mallard Cottage is a restaurant located in one of the oldest wooden structures in Newfoundland.  They are known for locally sourced seasonal fare and have gardens, chickens and bees of their own in the back.

Having decided that I wanted to be brave and try some local delicacies, I elected to try the eggs Benedict with the breakfast meat of the day which turned out to be seal.   It was actually quite tasty.  It was mildly flavoured and resembled a thinly sliced teriyaki.  Of course I got a cake table box to go as well.

Since we hadn't yet done much shopping, we decided a wander down Water Street was in order.  We quickly realized that Kelly and I like to shop along one side of the street, cross and then continue back along the other side.   The others prefer to criss cross willy nilly to hit up the stores they felt like visiting.   They likely spent more money and bought more souvenirs, but Kelly and I found $3 mimosas at the Gypsy Tea Room. 

Our bartender was fantastic; he was a young bayman turned townie who kept the mimosas coming while providing us with very interesting insights and education into life in Newfoundland and the hunting and fishing industry.   He explained how the regulations imposed upon them by people who don't appreciate the impacts of them on their way of life have wreaked havoc upon their economy.  He told us about how banning the seal hunt has meant that people in Labrador can't provide food for their families.   Watermelon there may cost $70 if you are even able to find food on the shelves that week    He said that the overpopulation of seals has decimated the fishing industry in Newfoundland.   People picture them clubbing baby seals but that's completely inaccurate and the penalties for killing a baby are harsh (lose your house, your car, big fines).  Yet, celebrities come with PETA to protest the seal hunt, ignore the advice of the locals and pose with baby seals who were left on the ice floes as their parents went in search of food, essentially sentencing the babies they're claiming to protect to starvation.  The babies will no longer be imprinted on the parents so will be abandoned.  

The rules and regulations on the fishing industry have hurt them too.  They are only allowed 2 salmon per season and once they catch their quota, they have to return their licenses.  They are also only allowed 5 or 6 cod per day,  with strict rules about size of fish and harsh penalties for not following the rules.  He said that although they live on an island, they are needing to import fish.

After our tour of the basement, we headed onto Shamrock City Pub for happy hour as per the recommendation of the lovely bartender.   The music was good and the beer was cold.  

If any of you know my parents and have heard my dad's stories about their trip to Newfoundland, you have likely heard him talk about Oliver's.   Because he talks about it so often, Renee thought we should be sure to check it out.  The food was good but the funny thing is that my parents didn't eat there.  They ate at a restaurant called The Cellar which was located on the second floor of a building; it is no longer open, likely another covid casualty. 

Some Day on Clothes - June 11, 2022

After the rain on Friday, it was exciting to wake up to a beautiful, sunshiney day on Saturday.   We Come From Aways thought it was lovely but the locals were complaining about the heat.

We started the day with a drive to Bay Bulls for a boat tour with O'Briens.  We were hoping to see whales and icebergs but had to settle for loads of puffins and other cute sea birds.   

We almost managed to see what Chris and I ate for breakfast too.  Apparently the rain from the day before meant rough seas today.  The Captain told Chris that if it was any rougher, the trip would have been canceled.   I was worried at times that we were going to suffer the same fate as Gilligan and friends.  I only wish the video I attempted to take even remotely resembled the rocking and rolling we were doing.

We made sure to get Screeched In while on board, becoming honorary Newfoundlanders.  Because of the cod moratorium, though, we kissed a stuffed puffin instead of an actual cod.  I am not quite sure how I feel about kissing the same stuffie as many before after 2 plus years of social distancing however...

After returning safely to land, we ventured onward to Petty Harbour for lunch.   I had read that Chafe's Landing had the best lobster rolls on the Rock.   It's also the hometown of Alan Doyle but he was in Charlottetown unfortunately (I thought it would be really cool to see him in concert in St. John's).  Kelly was excited to recognize a house she'd seen on Rock Solid Builds.

When we arrived back to St. John's, we decided it was a great afternoon to spend on Signal Hill.  Signal Hill was the site of the harbour defenses of St. John's from the 17th century to the Second World War.  It was also the site where Marconi received the first wireless transmission in 1901.  As you may be able to discern from our hair, the wind on the hill is strong, but the views were stunning. 

On the way back to our home away from home, we made sure we took a little detour to check out some of the Jellybean Row houses that St. John's is famous for.

Dinner tonight was at Salthouse Kitchen.   We enjoyed the music and atmosphere but the food wasn't the best we'd had in St. John's (and we enjoyed LOTS of good food).  

After dinner, we headed back to George St for some drinks, music and people watching.   

RFD (Newfie for Rain, Fog, Drizzle) - June 10, 2022

Now, when we were checking out the forecast ahead of time, they were calling for rain most of the weekend.   Of course, we chose to go along with Kelly's weather app instead because there was more sun in her forecast.  We woke up to a rather rainy Friday morning.   Not wanting to allow a few raindrop to put a damper on things, Chris donned his most weather appropriate gear and we asked our good friend, Google, what to do on a rainy day in St. John's and she had a few suggestions (what did we do before Google?)

1)  The Newman Wine Vaults.  Apparently the tradition of aging Port wine in Newfoundland dates back to 1679 and continued on in these historic Vaults until at least 1893 and possibly up to 1914.   It was certainly informative and who doesn't need to sample Port at 930 am?

2)  The Terry Fox Memorial/Mile Zero.  Obviously we had to visit the starting point of Terry Fox's Marathon of Hope.  I don't think it was on the list of rainy day activities but it was nearby. 

3) The Rooms.  This is a very unique building with fantastic views which houses a gallery of local art and a museum of Newfoundland and Labrador Natural and Cultural History.   It honestly wasn't on our lists of must-sees but it was a great way to spend a few rainy hours.  I was pleasantly surprised. 

4) Quidi Vidi Brewery.  This was a former fish plant turned brewery on the lake in the village of Quidi Vidi.  We may have sampled a few of their delicious sounding beers/sours.  Of course, I also couldn't leave St. John's without trying their famous Iceberg Beer.

All in all, it was a pretty great day in spite of the weather.

St. John's, Newfoundland - June 9, 2022

Well, Covid certainly put a damper on our travels for the past couple of years.  Luckily it seems as though maybe the worst is behind us now?  At least we can hope it is...

Anyways, June took me to meet up with my brother and sister-in-law, her father and a couple of their friends in St. John's, Newfoundland.   It's always been a place I wanted to visit so called it an early 50th birthday celebration and off I went. 

Miraculously, my flights were all basically on time and uneventful.   I arrived to a bright, sunny St. John's afternoon.   Their friend, Kelly, had arrived on an earlier flight and we weren't expecting Chris, Renee, Harry and Rose for another couple of hours.  I hopped in a taxi and met up with Kelly at Yellowbelly Brewery for the first of many drinks and food experiences that the weekend held.

After we indulged in a few beverages and some conversation, the rest of our group arrived.  From there, we headed to Dogberry Cottage, our gorgeous AirBNB in the Battery.  

Dinner found us heading down the hills, of which there are many in St. John's, to the St  John's Fish Exchange.   I had some yummy calamari and an amazing salad.   I also got brave and tried some of Chris' Tuna tartare and was pleasantly surprised. 

After dinner, Chris, Renee and I wandered over to a pub, Bridie Molloy's, on George Street while everyone else headed home.  It was open mike night so some of the "music" was not fantastic but the beer was cold and the company was great.

 And that was a wrap on Day One for me (it was about Day 8 or 9 for Chris and Renee in Newfoundland.  They were lucky.)