For our last full day on the Rock, we woke up before the sun to head to Cape Spear. For those who don't know, Cape Spear is the easternmost point of North America which means we were first to see the sun rise (along with the other early birds we met there).
On the way back to town, we came around the corner to see this beauty in the middle of the highway.
After freshening up and picking up Harry and Rose who decided they needed sleep more than sunrises, we headed back to Quidi Vidi for brunch at Mallard Cottage. Mallard Cottage is a restaurant located in one of the oldest wooden structures in Newfoundland. They are known for locally sourced seasonal fare and have gardens, chickens and bees of their own in the back.
Having decided that I wanted to be brave and try some local delicacies, I elected to try the eggs Benedict with the breakfast meat of the day which turned out to be seal. It was actually quite tasty. It was mildly flavoured and resembled a thinly sliced teriyaki. Of course I got a cake table box to go as well.
Since we hadn't yet done much shopping, we decided a wander down Water Street was in order. We quickly realized that Kelly and I like to shop along one side of the street, cross and then continue back along the other side. The others prefer to criss cross willy nilly to hit up the stores they felt like visiting. They likely spent more money and bought more souvenirs, but Kelly and I found $3 mimosas at the Gypsy Tea Room.
Our bartender was fantastic; he was a young bayman turned townie who kept the mimosas coming while providing us with very interesting insights and education into life in Newfoundland and the hunting and fishing industry. He explained how the regulations imposed upon them by people who don't appreciate the impacts of them on their way of life have wreaked havoc upon their economy. He told us about how banning the seal hunt has meant that people in Labrador can't provide food for their families. Watermelon there may cost $70 if you are even able to find food on the shelves that week He said that the overpopulation of seals has decimated the fishing industry in Newfoundland. People picture them clubbing baby seals but that's completely inaccurate and the penalties for killing a baby are harsh (lose your house, your car, big fines). Yet, celebrities come with PETA to protest the seal hunt, ignore the advice of the locals and pose with baby seals who were left on the ice floes as their parents went in search of food, essentially sentencing the babies they're claiming to protect to starvation. The babies will no longer be imprinted on the parents so will be abandoned.
The rules and regulations on the fishing industry have hurt them too. They are only allowed 2 salmon per season and once they catch their quota, they have to return their licenses. They are also only allowed 5 or 6 cod per day, with strict rules about size of fish and harsh penalties for not following the rules. He said that although they live on an island, they are needing to import fish.
After our tour of the basement, we headed onto Shamrock City Pub for happy hour as per the recommendation of the lovely bartender. The music was good and the beer was cold.
If any of you know my parents and have heard my dad's stories about their trip to Newfoundland, you have likely heard him talk about Oliver's. Because he talks about it so often, Renee thought we should be sure to check it out. The food was good but the funny thing is that my parents didn't eat there. They ate at a restaurant called The Cellar which was located on the second floor of a building; it is no longer open, likely another covid casualty.
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